ऊनी वस्त्र उद्योग
| chitr:Icon-edit.gif | is lekh ka punarikshan evan sampadan hona avashyak hai. ap isamean sahayata kar sakate haian. "sujhav" |
[[chitr:Woolen-Weavers.jpg|thumb|250px|ooni vastr banati mahilaean]] ooni vastr udyog ki ganana desh ke prachin kutir udyogoan mean ki jati hai. isake antargat kambal, kalinean, shalean, namada, loee adi ka nirman kushal karigaroan dvara kiya jata hai. isake pramukh kendr haian - amritasar, tatha ludhiyana (panjab), bhadohi, mirjapur, agara, mujaphpharapur, varanasi (uttar pradesh), machhalipattanam, bangaluroo, ennaur, shrinagar, varangal adi. jammoo kashmir rajy se inaka videshoan ko bhi niryat kiya jata hai.
ooni vastr
ooni vastr banane ke lie bhe doan par se oon ki kataee ki jati hai, jo ki varsh mean do bar kati jati hai aur oon ko katane ki kee ritiyaan haian. baluhi bhoomivale pradesh mean charane ke lie bhojan se poorv, oon kati jati hai. nyoojilaiand aur astreliya mean oon ki kataee yantr dvara hoti hai. in donoan deshoan mean bhramanakari dal rahate haian jo yantr se oon katate haian. parantu gret briten aur bharat mean kataee hath se hoti hai.
chhantaee
oon kat jane par kam ke anusar oon ko chhaanta jata hai. oon ka chayan uttar se ae prakash mean kiya jata hai; poorv, pashchim ya dakshin se ae prakash mean nahian, kyoanki poorv, pashchim ya dakshin se ae prakash mean adhik vaividhy aur pitata ki sanbhavana rahati hai. oon ko chhaantate samay karyakarta ko bahut savadhani rakhani p dati hai, kyoanki paha di bhe doan ke oon mean kabhi-kabhi aise kitanu rahate haian jinase manushy ko aianthrauks namak charmarog hone ki ashanka hoti hai. alapaka, kashmiri, eerani tatha any prakar ke oon ko jalidar mej par kholakar rakh diya jata hai aur usake niche pankha chala diya jata hai, jisase hava niche jati rahati hai aur karyakarta suvidha se apana kam kar sakata hai. chayan ke poorv eerani oon ko bhi kitanurahit karana avashyak hota hai.
yok
oon ka chayan usaki bariki, lanbaee tatha bhe d ke sharir par usake sthan ke anusar kiya jata hai. tab 'dastar' namak mashin se oon mean mili huee dhooli ko alag kiya jata hai. dhooli nikale jane ke bad usaki prakritik evan mishrit malinata saf ki jati hai. prakritik malinata mean ek prakar ki bhari chikanaee athava mom rahata hai jise aangrezi mean yok kahate haian. yok ke karan ooni resha kuchh gurutar aur achchhi halat mean rahata hai. prakritik malinata mean sookha hua pasina bhi rahata hai jo bhe d ke sharir se bahakar sookh jata hai aur oon mean mil jata hai. ise aangreji mean sviant kahate haian.
oon ki saphaee
saphaee ki riti yah hai ki oon ko gunagune pani mean bhigokar tar kar diya jata hai jisase bhe d ka sookha pasina galakar nikal jata hai. sath hi baloo tatha dhooli bhi alag ho jati hai. do ya tin bar oon ko dhone ke bad use ek ya do bar sabun ke ghol mean dhoya jata hai. aantim bar use bilkul shuddh evan nirmal jal mean dhoya jata hai.
oon ko poorvokt riti se saf karane par prakritik mal hat jata hai, kiantu kuchh mishrit dhatuean jaise vanaspatik padarth, phir bhi oon mean mili hi rahati haian. at ev isaki bhi saphaee avashyak hoti hai. yah kary oon ko gandhak ke aml ke 3° se 4° bome tak ke halake ghol mean bhigokar nikal liya jata hai aur phir use garam hava se 250° pharenahait tak garam kar diya jata hai, kyoanki aml ka oon par koee hanikarak prabhav nahian p data. aml se bij adi ke kantile roean jal jate haian isalie ve alag ho jate haian.
- lainolin
oon ke dhovan se bahumooly samagri upalabdh hoti hai jise aangrezi mean 'lainolin' kahate haian. lainolin ka upayog kaantivardhak prasadhan ke nirman mean hota hai. isase manushy ki tvacha chikani aur mulayam hoti hai. isaka upayog kee audyogik vastuoan ke nirman mean bhi hota hai. mukhalep, malinata hatane vale dravy, malaham, palish, syahi, murcha chhu dane vale padarth, safed sabun adi mean bhi isaka upayog hota hai.
dhunaee (kardig)
dhul jane ke bad oon ke reshe ko soot ke roop mean parinat karane ke lie pahale dhunaee (kardig) ki zaroorat hoti hai. kardik ke lie oon ko kholakar mashin dvara is prakar milaya jata hai ki jali ke saman patali aur mulayam patti ban jae. jis mashin ke dvara yah kam hota hai usaka nam hai 'kardig ianjan'. kabhi-kabhi kardig ianjan ke sath bhari rolar phit kar die jate haian jisamean oon mean bachi-khuchi trutiyaan bhi door ho jaean. tadanantar oon do belanoan ke bich se gujarati hai. in belanoan par aisa 'kardig klath' rahata hai jisamean barik aur chhote-chhote lohe ke hajaroan tar guthe rahate haian. ye tar rolaroan mean ek doosare ke samane lage rahate hai aur lachile hote haian. inase oon ke reshe bahut kuchh samaantar ho jate haian. any kee belanoan ke bich hota hua oon aant mean bina bunavat aur bina ulajhan ki phulaphuli chau di patti ka roop dharan kar leta hai. tab mashin mean lage aantim bhag se yah anek sankari pattiyoan mean baant diya jata hai aur cham de ke b de patte par jata hai. batti banane mean hatheliyoan ka anukaran karate hue ye patte reshoan ko sankirn ghere mean dabakar malate haian. is prakar kataee ke lie pooni taiyar ho jati hai. is prakriya mean toote hue reshe alag nikal ate haian. is prakar ka soot ooni soot kaha jata hai aur isase jo kap da taiyar kiya jata hai use ooni vastr kaha jata hai. 'varsted kl aauth' mean oon ke reshe ek doosare ke samaantar rahate haian aur isalie kafi lanbe reshoan hi se aisa vastr banata hai.
kanghi
samaantar dhang se reshe ko nikalane ke lie oon ke mutthe ko dohara kar diya jata hai aur do rolaroan ke bich se use nikala jata hai. usake age do any rolar kuchh adhik gati se chalae jate haian; isase oon khianch jata hai. do rolaroan ki jo di ke bich tezike sath chalane vale daant reshoan ki samaantar karate chalate haian. thaili mean chhote-chhote reshe rah jate haian. unhean ek doosari vidhi se hataya jata haian, jise kanghi karana (aangrezi mean kauanbiang) kahate haian. tadanantar oon ka muttha phir dohara kar diya jata hai aur unako do rolaroan ke bich se ek bar aur nikala jata hai.
dr aauiang
isake bad oon ke mutthe ka khianchakar lanba kiya jata hai. ise dr aauiang kahate haian. yahaan par ek se chhah mutthe ek sath chalae jate haian. ye mootthe bhari rolaroan ki jo diyoan ke bich se chalae jate haian. doosari jo di vale rolaroan ki gati pahale vale se adhik rahati hai. parinamasvaroop mota soot patala hota jata hai. ichchhanusar patala ho jane par kachche soot ko babin par lapeta jata hai.
kataee
oopar batae ge kachche soot ko phir aiantha jata hai jisase sootr mazaboot ho jata hai. tab us soot ko lachchhiyoan mean lapeta jata hai. jis prakar ka soot hota hai vesi hi usamean aianthan dali jati hai. is karyavidhi ko kataee (aangreji mean 'spiniang') kahate haian. soot ki kataee ke lie vibhinn prakar ki mashinoan ka prayog hota hai.
karaghe
jis mashin ya yantr par kap da buna jata hai usaka nam karagha hai. karaghe ka sanchalan ya to hath dvara hota hai ya vidyuchchhakti dvara. karaghe par bunaee ka kam bahut kuchh usi prakar hota hai jis prakar sooti or reshami kap de bune jate haian. bunaee ke bad kap de ki jaanch ki jati hai jisase usamean aee huee trutiyoan ka nivaran kiya ja sake. kabhi-kabhi bunaee ke samay kap de mean gaanth p d jati hai ya tage rah jate haian. unaka sudhar hath dvara kiya jata hai.
bunaee ke samay kap de gande ho jate haian, isalie bunaee ke bad kap de ko dhoya jata hai. kap de ko sabun ke ghol mean bhigaya jata hai. phir kap de ko bhari rolaroan ke bich se chalaya jata hai jisase sabun ka pani nikal jae. aant mean kap de ko shuddh pani se dhokar sukhaya jata hai. sukhane par kap da kuchh kathor ho jata hai.
kap de ki zamin ek saman komal bani rahe isake lie mashin dvara kap de mean nikale hue dhage ko kata jata hai. jis mashin dvara katane ka kam hota hai usamean do vrittakar chakoo hote haian. is mashin ka kam keval zamin ko samatal banana hota hai.
aantat: taiyar hue kap de ki tah lagaee jati hai. tah lagane ka kam mashin dvara kiya jata hai. phir ek doosari mashin mean kap de ko dabaya jata hai aur tab kap da bazar mean bhej diya jata hai.
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tika tippani aur sandarbh
bahari k diyaan
sanbandhit lekh