अंगराग

aangarag - sanjna pulliang (sanskrit angarag)

1. chandan, kesar, kapoor, kastoori adi sugandhit dravyoan ka mila lep, jo aang mean lagaya jata hai, ubatan.
2. vastr aur abhooshan
3. sharir ki shobha ke liye mahavar adi rangane ki samagri.
4. striyoan ke sharir ke aangoan ki sajavat-maang mean siandoor, mathe mean roli, gal par til ki rachana, kesar ka lep aur hath-pair mean mehandi v mahavar.
5. ek prakar ki sugandhit desi bukani, jise muanh par lagate haian.
6. chauansath kalaoan mean se ek.

aangarag sharir ke vibhinn aangoan ka sauandary athava mohakata badhane ke lie ya unako svachchh rakhane ke lie sharir par lagaee jane vali vastuoan ko aangarag (k aausmetik) kahate haian, parantu sabun ki ganana aangaragoan mean nahian ki jati. thumb|250px|sauandary prasadhan itihas__sabhyata ke pradurbhav se hi manushy svabhavat: apane sharir ke aangoan ko shuddh, svasth, sudaul aur suandar tatha tvacha ko sukomal, mridu, diptiman aur kaantiyukt rakhane ke lie satat prayatnashil raha hai. isamean koee sandeh nahian ki sharirik svasthy aur sauandary pray: manushy ke aantarik svasthy aur manasik shuddhi par nirbhar hai. tathapi, yah saty hai ki kisi ke vyaktitv ko akarshak aur sarvapriy banane mean aangarag aur sugandh vishesh roop se sahayak hote haian. sansar ke vibhinn deshoan ke sahity aur saanskritik itihas ke adhyayan se pata chalata hai ki bhinn-bhinn avasaroan par pragatishil nagarikoan dvara aangarag aur gandh shastr sanbandhi kalaoan ka upayog sharirik svasthy aur tvacha ki sauandary vriddhi ke lie kiya jata raha hai.

bharat yugayugaantar se dharm pradhan desh raha hai. isalie aangarag aur sugandh ki rachana aur upayog ko manushy ki tamasik vasanaoan ka uttejak n manakar samaj kalyan aur dharm prerana ka sadhan samajha jata raha hai. ary sanskriti mean aangarag aur gandh shastr ka mahatv pratyek sadgrihasth ke dainik jivan mean utana hi avashyak raha hai jitana panch mahayajn aur varnashram dharm ki maryada ka palan. vaidik sahity, mahabharat, brihatsanhita, nighantu, sushrut, agnipuran, markandeyapuran, shukraniti, kautily arthashastr, shardg़dhar paddhati, vatsyayan kamasootr, lalit vistar, bharat natyashastr, amarakosh ityadi mean nanavidh aangaragoan aur gandh dravyoan ka rachanatmak aur prayogatmak varnan paya jata hai. sadgopal aur pi.ke. gode ke anusanghanoan ke anusar in granthoan mean sharir ke vividh prasadhanoan mean se visheshataya darpan ki nirman kala, anek prakar ke udvartan, vilep, dhoolan, choorn, parag, tail, dipavarti, dhoopavarti, gandhodak, snaniy choornavas, mukhavas ityadi ka vistrit vidhan kiya gaya hai. gangadharakrit gandhasar namak granth ke anusar tatkalin bharat mean aangaragoan ke nirman mean mukhyataya nimnalikhit chhah prakar ki vidhiyoan ka prayog kiya jata tha.

1. bhavan kriya__choorn kie hue padarthoan ko taral dravyoan se anubiddh karana.

2. pachan kriya__kvathan dvara vividh padarthoan ko pakakar sanyukt karana.

3. bodh kriya__gunavardhak padarthoan ke sanyog se punaruttejit karana.

4. veedh kriya__svasthyavardhak aur tvachopakarak padarthoan ke sanyog se aangaragoan ko chiropayogi banana.

5. dhoopan kriya__saugandhik dravyoan ke dhuoan se suvasit karana.

6. vasan kriya__saugandhik tailoan aur tatsadrish any dravyoan ke sanyog se suvasit karana.

raghuvansh, rritusanhar, malatimadhav, kumarasanbhav, kadanvari, harshacharit aur pali granthoan mean varnit vividh aangaragoan mean nimnalikhit dravyoan ka vistrit vidhan paya jata hai.

mukh prasadhan ke lie vilepan aur anulepan, udvartan, ranjakanakika, dipavati ityadi; sir ke baloan ke lie vividh prakar ke tail, dhoop aur keshapatavas ityadi; aankhoan ke lie kajal, surama aur prasadhan shalakaean ityadi; oshthoan ke lie ranjakashalakaean; hath aur paanv ke lie meanhadi aur alata; sharir ke lie chandan, devadaru aur agaru ityadi ke vividh lep, sthaniy choornavas aur phenak ityadi tatha mukhavas, kakshavas aur grihavas ityadi. in aangaragoan aur sugandhoan ki rachana ke lie anubhavi shastroan tatha prayogadi ke lie prasadhakoan tatha prasadhikaoan ko vishesh roop se shikshit aur abhyast karana avashyak samajha jata tha. thumb|250px

aangaragashastr ki vaijnanik kala dvara un sabhi prasadhan dravyoan ka rachanatmak aur prayogatmak vidhan kiya jata hai jinake upayog se manushy sharir ke vividh aangopaangoan aur tvacha ko svasth, nirdosh, nirvikar, kaantiman aur suandar rakhakar lok kalyan siddh kiya ja sake. bharat mean puratan kal se aangarag sanbandhi vividh prasadhan dravyoan ka nirman prakritik aur mukhyataya vanaspatik sansadhanoan dvara hota raha hai. kiantu vartaman yug mean adhunik vijnan ki unnati se aangaragoan ki rachana aur prayog mean ane vale sansadhanoan ki sankhya ka vistar itana badh gaya hai ki any vaijnanik vishayoan ki tarah is vishay ka jnanarjan bhi vishesh prayatn dvara hi sanbhav hai.

adhunik kal mean aangarag- adhunik kal mean vishesh prakar ke sabunoan tatha aangaragoan ka vistar aur prachar sharirik sauandaryavriddhi ke lie hi nahian apitu sharirik doshopachar ke lie bhi badh raha hai. at: aangarag ke aise aupacharik prasadhanoan ko aushadhiyoan se alag rakhane ki drishti se amarika tatha any videshoan mean in padarthoan ki rachana aur bikri par sarakari kanoonoan dvara k da niyantran kiya ja raha hai. ajakal ke sarvasangat siddhaant ke anusar nimnalikhit padarth hi aangarag ke aantargat rakhe ja sakate haian:

1.ve padarth jinaka upayog sharir ki sauandaryavriddhi ke lie ho, n ki in prasadhanoan ke upakaran. is drishti se kanghi, ustara, daantoan aur baloan ke burush ityadi aangarag nahian kahe ja sakate.

2. aangarag ke prasadhanoan mean bal dhone ke taral phenak (shaianpoo), dadhi banane ka sabun, vilepan (krim) aur loshan ityadi to rakhe ja sakate haian, kiantu nahane ke sabun nahian.

3. aangarag ke prasadhanoan mean aise aupacharik padarthoan ko bhi rakha jata hai jo aushadh ke saman gunakarak hote hue bhi mukhyat: sharir shuddhi ke lie hi prayukt hote haian, jaise pasina kam karane vali prasadhan adi.

4. ve padarth jo anivary roop se manushy ke sharir par hi prayukt hote haian, balagrih aur amod-pramod ke sthanoan ityadi ko sugandhit rakhane ke lie nahian.

vargikaran- oopar likhe adhunik siddhaant ke anusar manushy sharir ke aangopaang par prayog ki drishti se vividh prasadhanoan ka shastriy vargikaran nimnalikhit prakar se karana chahie:

1. tvacha sanbandhi prasadhan- choorn (paudar); vilepan (krim); saandr aur taral loshan; gandhahar (diodoraiand); snaniy prasadhan (bath pripereshans); shrriangar prasadhan (mek-ap) jaise akuankup (roopah); kajal, oshtharanjak shalaka (lipastik) tatha soory sanskarak prasadhan (san-tain pripereshans) ityadi.

2. baloan ke prasadhan- shaianpoo; keshavaly (heyar t aaunik); kesh sanbharak (heyar dresiangs) aur shoobhrak (briliyantain); kshir prasadhan (sheviang pripereshans); vilomak (dipiletari) ityadi.

3. nav prasadhan- nakhapramarjak (nel p aaulish) aur pramarj apanayan (p aaulish rimoovar); nav ranjak prasadhan (mainikyor pripereshans) ityadi.

4. mukh prasadhan- mukhadhavak (mauth vash); dantashan (deantiphis); dantalepi (toothapest) ityadi.

5. suvasit prasadhan- sugandh; gandhodak (t aauyalet vatar aur kolon vatar); gandhashalaka (kolon stik) ityadi.

6. vividh prasadhan- hath aur paanv ke lie meanhadi aur alata ityadi; kit pratyapasari (insekt ripeleant) ityadi.

aangaragoan ke nirman ke lie kutir udyog aur b de-b de karakhanoan, donoan roopoan mean nirmanashala sangathit ki ja sakati hai. is shastr ko vividh virachanaoan ko lokapriyata aur saphalata ke lie nirmanakartta ko n keval rasayan ka pandit hona chahie balki shariravijnan, vanaspativijnan, kit aur krishi vijnan ityadi vishayoan ka bhi gahara avyayan hona avashyak hai.

tvacha par aangaragoan ka prabhav- manushy ki tvacha se ek vishesh prakar ka snigdh taral padarth nikala karata hai. din rat ke 24 ghantoan mean nikale is snigdh taral padarth ki matra do gram ke lagabhag hoti hai. isamean vasa, jal, lavan aur naitrojanayukt padarth rahate haian. isi vasa ke prabhav se bal aur tvacha snigdh, mridu aur kaantivan rahate haian. yadi tvagh‌vasa granthiyoan mean se paryapt matra mean vasa nikalati rahe to tvacha svasth aur komal pratit hoti hai. is vasa ke abhav mean tvacha rookhi-sookhi aur prachur matra mean nikalane se ati snigdh pratit hoti hai. sadharanataya shitapradhan aur samashitoshn sthaloan ke nivasiyoan ki tvachaean sookhi tatha ayanavritt (tr aaupiks) sthit nivasiyoan ki tvachaean snigdh paee jati hai. sharirik tvacha ko svachchh, svasth, suandar, sukomal aur kaantiyukt banae rakhane ke lie sharirik vyayam aur svasthy param sahayak haian. tathapi is svasthy ko sthir rakhane ke vividh aangaragoan ka sadupayog vishesh roop se labhaprad hota hai. sharirik tvacha ki svachchhata aur mrit koshikaoan ka utsarjan, sved granthiyoan ko khula aur durgandharahit karana, dhoop, saradi aur garami se sharir ka pratirakshan, tvacha ke svasthy ke lie paramavashyak vasa ko pahuanchana, use muhaanse, jhurriyoan aur kale tiloan jaise dagoan se bachana, tvacha ko sukomal aur kaantiyukt banae rakhana, use budhape ke akramanoan se bachana aur baloan ke sauandary ko banae rakhana ityadi aangaragoan ke prabhav se hi sanbhav hai. shastriy vidhi se nirmit aangaragoan ka sadupayog manushy jivan ko sukhi banane mean atyant labhaprad siddh hua hai.

vainishiang krim- arvachin aangaragoan mean se vainishiang krim namak mukharag ka vyavahar bahut lokapriy ho gaya hai. muanh ki tvacha par tho da-sa hi malane se is vilepan (krim) ka aantardhan hokar lop ho jana hi isake namakaran ka mool karan jan p data hai (vainishiang-lupt hone vala). yah vastav mean stiyarik aisid athava kisi upayukt stiyaret aur jal dvara prastut payas (imalashan) hai. sodiyam haidr aauksaid, sodiyam karbonet aur suhage ke yog se jo vilepan banata hai, vah k da aur phika sa hota hai. isake viparit potaishiyam haidr aauksaid aur potaishiyam karbonet ke yog se bane vilepan naram aur diptiman hote haian. amoniya ke yog ke karan vilepan ko vishisht gandh aur rang ke big dane ki ashanka rahati hai. monogligaraidoan aur glaikol stiyaretoan ke yog se achchhe vilepan banae ja sakate haian. ek bhag sodiyam aur nau bhag potaishiyam haidroksaid mishrit sabunoan ki apeksha sodiyam aur potaishiyam haidrॅaksaid ke sammishran mean traee-ibenolemain ke yaugik bhi upayogi siddh hue haian. karbonetoan ke upayog ke samay adhik dhyan dena avashyak hai kyoanki karbanadॅaiaksaid namak gais nikalane se yog rachana ke lie duguna b da bartan rakhana aur gais ko poori tarah nikal dena paramavashyak hai. vainishiang krim ki adharabhoot rachana ke vishuddh stiyarik aisid, kshar, jal aur glisarin ka hi mukhyataya prayog kiya jata hai. drishtaant ke lie do yog rachanaean niche di jati haian:

yaugik padarth sootr 1 sootr 2

(bhag) (bhag)

1. stiyarik aisid (vishuddh) 20 25

2. potaishiyam haidroksaid 1 (potai. karbonet 1.2

(vishuddh) (vishuddh)

3. glisarin 5 10

4. jal 74 63.8

5. sugandh (100 kilo. 250-400 gramakrim ke lie) tak

yog vidhi- (k) yaugik san. 1 ko pighala lijie aur (kh) yaugik san. 2 aur 3 ko 4 mean gholakar 850 seantigred tak garam kar lijie. phir dhire-dhire lagatar hilate hue (e) ghol ko (k) mean chho date jaie. is kary ke lie kaanch, ailyuminiyam, inaimal athava stenales stil ke baratanoan aur karachhuloan ka hi upayog karana chahie. doosari yog rachana mean gais ko poori tarah nikalana avashyak hai. jab kul pani ka ghol is prakar stiyarik aisid mean mil jae to is payas ko thanda hone ke lie ek din tak alag rakh dijie. tab isamean upayukt sugandh uchit matra mean chho dakar ath das din tak mishran ko paripakv hone diya jae. phir ek var khud hilakar shishiyoan mean bharakar rakh diya jae. sadharan jal ka sthan par vishuddh gulab jal athava any saugandhik jaloan ke upayog se aur uttam krim banata hai.

kold krim- lokapriy mukharagoan mean se kold krim ka upayog muanh ki tvacha ko komal tatha kaantiman rakhane ke lie kiya jata hai. yah vastav mean ¢ tel-mean-jal¢ ka payas hone se tvacha mean vainishiang krim ki tarah aantardhan nahian ho pata. samaang, kaantimay, n bahut mulayam aur n bahut k da hone ke atirikt yah avashyak hai ki kisi bhi thik bane kold krim mean se jaliy aur tailiy padarth vilag n hoan aur krim phatane n pae, n siku dane hi pae. shitapradhan aur samashitoshn deshoan mean upayog ke lie naram kold krim aur ushn pradhan deshoan mean upayog ke lie k de krim banae jate haian. drishtaant ke lie ek yog rachana nimnalikhit hai:

madhumakkhi ka mom (vishuddh) 15 bhag

badam ka tail athava 55 bhag

minaral aauyal (65/75)

jal 29 bhag

suhaga 1 bhag

sadharanataya mom ki matra 15-20 pratishat rahati hai. any mom ko upayog mean late samay madhumakkhi ke mom ka aansh utana hi kam karana avashyak hai. k da krim banane ke lie siresin aur sparmesati ke mom bahut upayogi siddh hote haian. krim banate samay sarvapratham tel mean mom ko garam karake ise pighala liya jata hai. phir ubalate hue jal mean suhage ka ghol banakar tel mom ke garam mishran mean dhire-dhire hilakar milaya jata hai. is samay mishran ka tap lagabhag 70 digri seanti rahana chahie. kul padarth mil jane par is payas ko ek din tak alag rakh diya jata hai aur phir lagabhag 1/2 pratishat sugandh milakar shleshabh peshani (kolayad mil) mean do ek bar pisakar shishiyoan mean bhar diya jata hai.

phes paudar ka nuskha- mukh prasadhanoan mean phesh paudar, sarvadhik lokapriy aur suvidhajanak hone ke karan, atyant mahatvapoorn aangarag ho gaya hai. achchhe phes paudar me manamohak ragan, achchhi sanrachana, mukh prasadhan ke lie kshamata, sansagita (chipakane ki kshamata), sarpan (slip), vistar (balk), avashoshan, mridulak (bloom), tvagdosh-poorak-kshamata aur sugandh ityadi gunoan ka hona avashyak hai. in gunoan ke poorak mukhy padarth nimnalikhit haian:1

1.avashopak tatha tvagdhoshapoorak padarth - ziank aksaid, taiteniyam daiaksaid, maiganishiyam aksaid, maiganishiyam karbonet, kolayadal keolin, avakshipt ch aauk aur st aaurch ityadi.

2. sanlagi (chipakane vale)-zik, maiganishiyam aur ailyuminiyam ke stiyaret.

3. srip (phisalane vale) padarth-tailkam.

4. mridulak (tvagvikasak) padarth- pravakshipt ch aauk aur badhiya starch.

5. rang- aviley pigameant aur lek rang. okar, kasmetik bali, kasmetik braun aur aanbar ityadi.

6. sugandh- isake lie sadharanat: ek bhag tailkam ko kritrim aianbagrians ke ek bhag ke sath uchit gholak dravy, jese beanzil baianzoet, ke tin bhag mean milana avashyak hai. gholak ke mishran ko garam karake 70 bhag halaki avakshipt (lait presipiteted) ch aauk mila di jae aur phir tailkam milakar kal taul 1000 bhag kar liya jae. is kriya ko poorv sanskar kahate haian aur is prakar se banae tailkam ko sadharan tailkam ki tarah hi upayog mean la sakate haian.

yog rachana ke nusakhe aur vidhi- phes paudar vividh avasaroan aur pasandoan ke lie halake, sadharan aur bhari, kee prakar ke banae jate haian. apekshit sabhi yogik dravyoan ko khoob achchhi prakar se milakar ianch mean 100 chhed vali chalani mean se chhan lete haian aur aant mean rang aur sugandh dalakar, phir achchhi tarah milakar dibba band kar diya jata hai. drishtaant ke lie kuchh nusakhe niche die jate haian:

yaugik padarth halake paudar sadharan paudar bhari paudar

bhag bhag

ziank aauksaid 15 - 71/2 20 - 10 30 - 15

taiteniyam daeeaksaid - 5 2 1/2 - 7 3 1/2 - 9 5

tailkam 75 80 75 65 78 71 1/2 56 75 64

zik stiyaret 5 7 7 5 7 7 4 6 6

avakshipt ch aauk 5 8 8 10 8 8 10 10 10

lipistik- kisi saandrit aur snigdh adhar (padarth) mean tho de se ghule hue aur mukhyataya alanbit (saspeanded) ranjak dravy ki oshtharanjak-shalaka ka nam lipistik hai. ek bar prayog mean lane se isake rang aur snigdhata ka prabhav 6 se 8 ghante tak bana rahata hai. rang ka asaman mishran, shalaka ka tootana ya pasijana ityadi doshoan se isaka rahit hona atyant avashyak hai. lagabhag 2 gram ki ek shalaka 250 se 400 bar prayog mean laee ja sakati hai. sadharanat: lipistikoan ki tvacha mean bromo aisid 2 pratishat aur rangin lek 10 pratishat ki kisi upayukt adharak dravy mean milaya jata hai. gholakoan mean se erand ka tel aur byootil stiyaret, sanlagiyoan mean se madhumakkhi ka mom, dipti ke lie 200 shyanata ka minaral aauyal, k da karane ke lie ojokerait 76 digri/ 80 phut seanti, siresin mom aur karanauba mom, saandrit adharak dravy ke taur par kakaoan batar aur uttam akriti ke lie aandisailik aisid ityadi dravyoan ka upayog kiya jata hai. do yog (nusakhe) nimnalikhit haian:

bhag

(k) traf petroletam 25

siresin 64 digri 25

minaral aauyal 210/220 15

maghumakkhi ka mom 15

lainolin (ajal) 5

bromo aisid 2

rangin lek 10

karanauba mom 3

(kh) avashoshan adharak dravy 28

siresin 64 digri 25

minaral aauyal 210/220 15

karanauba mom 5

madhumakkhi ka mom 15

bromi aisid 2

rangin lek 10

rachana vidhi- sarvapratham bromo aisid ko gholak dravyoan mean mila liya jata hai aur sabhi momoan ko bhali-bhaanti pighala kar garam kar liya jata hai. baki vasayukt padarthoan ko patala karake unamean rangin lek aur pigameant milakar shlesham peshani (kolayad mil) se pisakar ekaras kar liya jata hai. tab bromo aisid ke ghol mean sabhi padarth dhire-dhire chho dakar khoob hilaya jata hai taki ve apas mean thik-thik mil jaean. jab jamane ke tap se 5° -10° seanti ooancha tap rahe tabhi is mishran ko mil mean se nikalakar lipistik ke saanchoan mean dhal liya jata hai. in saanchoan ko ekadam thanda kar lena avashyak hai.

din-prati-din parivardhaman vaijnanik avishkaroan ke karan aangaragoan ki nirman paddhati aur yaugik padarthoan mean parivartan hote rahate haian. oopar kuchh rachana vidhiyoan aur unamean vyavahrit yaugik padarthoan ka vivaran diya gaya hai.

aangaragoan ka vyapar- bharat mean prati varsh kitane ka mal banata hai aur kitane ka videshoan mean ata hai, is sanbandh ke aank de prapt karana sanbhav nahian hai. abhi tak aangaragoan ke sanbandh man is prakar ke aank de ekatr nahian kie ja rahe haian. pichhale do varshoan (1957, 1958) mean lagae ge ayat sanbandhi bandhanoan ke karan lagabhag sabhi prakar ke aangaragoan ka videshoan mean ana band sa hai. isalie svadeshi aangaragoan ka nirman aur unaki khapat kee guna badh gee hai.

ianglaiand aur amarika mean aangaragoan ka vyapar aur udyog kitane mahatv ka hai, yah janana labhaprad hoga. ianglaiand mean sabhi prakar ke aangaragoan ke nirman aur bikri ke vistrit aank de sulabh haian. 1951 mean sabhi prakar ke aangaragoan ki kal bikri 3,06,01,000 pauand ki huee aur isaka mooly 1954 mean badhakar 3,78,13,000 pauand ho gaya. isi prakar amarika mean aangaragoan ki bikri ke aank de nimnalikhit haian:

aangaragoan ke prakar 1947 mean 1954 mean

(amariki dalaroan mean mooly)

kesharam 9,22,98,000 22,04,22,000

gtan prasadhan 9,30,83,000 13,07,89,000

saugandhik jal aur 5,03,22,000 7,70,41,000

snaniy vas

4. vividh aangarag 22,98,41,000 31,62,29,000

sarvayog 46,55,44,000 74,44,81,000

oopar ke videshi aankadoan se yah spasht hai ki aangaragoan ke udyog ka kshetr bharat mean vishal hai aur isaka bhavishy atyant ujjval hai.

panne ki pragati avastha

adhar

prarambhik

madhyamik

poornata

shodh