बनारस की वस्त्रकला

thumb|banarasi sa di banaras athava varanasi yog, bhog aur moksh ki nagari ke rup mean hajaroan varsh se vikhyat hai. yahaan ek or jahaan manikarnika ghat par log apane priyajanoan ke mrit sharir ka antim sanskar karane ate hai, vahian bahut se log akar kashi vas karate hue dharmaraj ke ane ka intajar karate yahaan haian. jnan ke pipasu vidyarthi yahaan shasriy adhyayan karane ke lie ate haian. banaras ki kala vishesh rup se reshami vasr, pital aur kashth ki kalatmak chijean samast vi mean prasiddh hai. ganga ka svaroop evan akriti jaisa banaras mean hai - ardh chandrakar - kahian bhi nahian hai. is tarah se banaras dharmakshetr ke sath hi mokshakshetr, jnanakshetr aur kalakshetr ko bhi apane-ap mean atmasat kiye hue hai.

banarasi vasr kala

banarasi vasr kala ek prachin aur gauravashali parampara hai. is gaurav ke anek ayam haian : devalay ki pavitrata, ganga ka saundary, mahaloan evan rajadarabaroan ki bhavyata, lavanyamayi taruni ka rup banarasi vasroan se nikhar uthati hai aur shreshthajanoan ka vyaktitv banarasi vasroan se gauravanvit hota hai. kala manav hriday ki komal anubhooti hai. vividh kalaean manav ruchiyoan evan sabhyata ko pariskrit karati haian. apane rahan-sahan, vesh-bhoosha, acharan aur vatavaran ko adhikadhik kalatmak banae rakhane ke prayas mean yah manav samaj sadaiv prayatnashil raha hai. is kasauti par banarasi vasr kala samanjasy ke bhavyatam pratik hai. binakari kala ke sampoorn suratal aur lay isaki bunavat mean is tarah gooanth diye jate haian jinhean aankhean spashtatah sunati hai. vishv ke kisi bhi vasr udyog (kala) ke pas kalakari ka vah nad aur svar nahian jinhean aankhean sun pati hoan.

aitihasik evan pauranik ullekh

• banarasi vasr kala ka hamare prachin granthoan mean kafi ullekh milata hai. vedoan mean- khasakar rrigved tatha yajurved tatha any granthoan mean kashi ke vasroan ke prachur ullekh milate hai. in granthoan mean yahaan nirmit vasroan ke lie kashi, kasik, kasiy, kashik, kaushey tatha varanasaiyyak shabdoan ka prayog hua hai. vedoan mean varnit hirany vasr (kimakhab) bhi kashi ke vasroan ke varnan mean prayah ativishisht shreni ke vasr ke rup mean kiya gaya hai tatha inaka prayog bhi samast bharatavarsh mean hota tha. vaidik sahity mean binakari ke bahut shabd jaise otu (bana), tantu (soot), tantr (tana), beman (karagha), prachinatan (age khianchavana), vay (bunakar), mayookh (dharaki) aye hai.
• ee. poo. ka mahajanapad yug, shaithoo, nagoan aur nandayug ki janakari jain sootroan, bauddh pitakoan aur brahman sootr mean kashi ke vasroan ke vishay mean sankshipt varnan hai.
• pali sahity mean bhi kashi ke bane vasroan ke ullekh haian. inhean kashikutttam aur kahian-kahian kasiy kahate the. yahaan ka vasr itana prasiddh tha ki mahaparinirvan-sootr ka tikakar vihit kappas par tika karate hue kahata hai ki bhagavan buddh ka mrit sharir banarasi vasr se lapeta gaya tha aur vah itana mahin aur gadhakar buna gaya tha ki tel tak nahian sokh sakata tha. isi tarah majjhimamanikay granth mean banarasi kap de ke batik pot ka ullekh varanasaiyyak nam se hai. is granth ka tikakar banarasi vasr ki prashansa karata hai. unake anusar kashi mean achchhi kapas hoti thi, vahaan ki katttinean aur binakar hoshiyar hote the aur vahaan ka naram pani (shayad gangajal) dhulaee ke lie bahut achchha p data tha. ye vasr oopar aur niche se mulayam aur chikane hote the.
• mahaparinibbanasoott mean kahi-kahian kashi ke hirany vasr (kimakhab) ka bhi ullekh ata hai. divyavadan granth mean reshami vasr ke lie pattanshuk, chin, kausheshh aur dhaut patt shabdoan ka vyavahar hua hai. dhaut pakhare hue resham ke vasroan ko kahate haian. divyavadan mean banarasi vasroan ke lie kashik vasr, kashi tatha kashik aausu ityadi shabdoan ka bhi prayog hua hai. kashik vasr sooti bhi ho sakate the kyoanki prachinakal mean banaras tatha isake asapas bahut achchhi kapas paida hoti thian aur yahaan ki kattinean bahut mahin soot katati thi. thumb|zari ka kam|left
• jain granth jaivoodvip prajnapti mean jannag (daraji) pattagar (reshami kap de bunane vale) tatha tantuvay (binakar) ko shilpiyoan ki shreni mean rakha gaya hai. isake atirikt karyasik (kapas bechane vale), sautrik (soot bechane vale) tatha daushyik (bajaj) ka bhi samajik jivan mean samman-poorn sthan tha. jatak kathaoan se pata lagata hai ki binakari mean sabhi vargoan ke log lage hue the. reshami-vasr bunane valoan ko pattagar tatha any binakaroan ko tantuvay kaha jata tha. kalantar mean pattagar ke lie patuva shabd prayog hone laga aur usake bad patuva samooh jati mean badal gaya. isake samarthan mean hamean patta (reshami kap de boonane vala) pattanthuk (reshami vasr) jaise shabd bhi milate haian. banarasi vasr kala ka ek nam pateshvari jisaka arth hai (binakaroan) dvara utpann lakshmi. patuva jati ke log nirantar is vyavasay mean lage rahe. ye log binakari ke alava mala evan jevaroan ki guanthaee tatha kasidakari ke kam mean bhi pravin the. bharat mean mugaloan ke agaman ke bad kafi uthal-puthal huee tatha anek samooh islam dharm mean parivartit ho gaye. patuva jati ka bhi ek b da hissa islam mean parivartit ho gaya. kashi mean abhi bhi kuchh patuva parivar haian. banarasi vasroan ke oopar sunahali aur rupahali manamohak kalakari ne mugal badashahoan ka man akhirakar moh hi liya. in badashahoan ko kashi ke vasroan se atyant lagav ho gaya tha. unhoanne kala ko age badhane mean kafi dilachaspi bhi li. badashahoan ki vishesh pasand ho jane ke karan isamean mugal shaili ka bhi samavesh hone laga. visheshakar eeran ke daksh kalakaroan ne isamean vishesh ruchi lekar yahaan ki kalakari mean apani kala ka samanjasy kiya. mugal shaili banarasi binakari ki lokapriyata ka sabase pramukh adhar isaki kala hai. parivartan ke anaginat daur se gujarane ke bad bhi banaras mean binakaroan ki sankhya dinanudin badhati hi ja rahi hai. yah hai jita-jagata evan chirantan praman jo is kala ke prati kalakaroan evan unake pidhi-dar-pidhi ke logoan ke sneh aur samapann ko pradarshit karata hai.

binakar aur binakari

binakar samanyataya b de evan sanyukt parivar mean rahate haian. is kala mean log bachapan se hi lag jate haian. kala ki jatilata itani hai ki agar bachapan se hi isapar dhyan n diya jay to phir ise sikhana mushkil ho jata hai. isamean parivar ke sabhi log bachche-boodhe, javan, aurat aur mard lage rahate haian. sabhi l dake-chahe ve skool jate ho ya n jate hoan - binakari das se barah varsh ki avastha mean praranbh kar dete hai. paanch se chhah varsh ka prashikshan (jo ghar mean hi mil jata hai) ke bad ek bachcha ek kushal binakar ke adhe ke asapas kamaee kar leta hai aur agale do se char varsh mean vah poorn karigar ban jata hai evan poori kamaee karane lagata hai. mahilaean samanyataya binane ka kary nahian karati parantu any madad jaise dhage ko sulajhana, bobiang mean dalana, charkha par taiyar karana ityadi kar deti hai. isilie bina aurat ke binaee lagabhag asambhav sa lagata hai. jab ek bachcha is kala ko sikhana praranbh karata hai to samanyataya vah buti kadhane ka ya dharaki ko phekane ka kary karata hai. isilie use buti kadhava ya dharaki phekava bhi kaha jata hai. jab ek binakar apani kala mean samagrata ke sath parangat ho jata hai tab use girahasta (pramukh binakar) kahakar pukara jata hai.

binakari takanik

1. REDIRECTsaancha:mukhy

banarasi (binakar gaj)

• 16 girah ka ek gaj hota hai.
• 4 aanguli ka ek girah hoti hai.
• 1 girah mean sava do eeanch hota hai.

binakari takanik

phanni ki lambaee	phanni ki lambaee sadhe satrah girah ke lagabhag hoti hai
panaha	phanni ke saeej par nirbhar karata hai. sa di ki chau daee athava arj ko panaha kaha jata hai.
bharuee ki phanni	bharuee ki phanni hi paramparagat phanni hai jo lupt pray ho rahi hai. bharuee ki phanni ke donoan bes ek prakar ki lak di se bana hota hai jise satha kaha jata hai.
sik	sik narakat se bana hota hai. narakat ko sik ki tarah banakar chau daee mean dala jata hai. bharuee ke phanne ke sik ki chau daee lagabhag 3 eeanch hoti hai.
vevar	bharuee ke phanni ke donoan chhor par lohe ke saman akar ke (sik ki akriti evan akar ke saman) sianke lagi hoti haian, jise vevar kaha jata hai.
geva	siank ko paramparik tatha prachalit bhasha mean geva kaha jata hai. geva do prakar ka hota hai: siank ka geva lohe ka geva. sa di ke panahe ke donoan hissoan ko thos tatha majabooti dene ke lie lohe ka geva diya jata hai.
hattha	phanni ke phrem ko hattha kaha jata hai. arthath phanni hatthe mean lagi hoti hai. hattha lak di ka bana hota hai.
taraudhi	hatthe ke niche ke bhag ko taraudhi kaha jata hai. hatthe aur taraudhi ke andar vale bhag mean ek nali khudi hoti hai jisamean phanni baithi hoti hai.
khaddi	khaddi jamin mean g di hoti hai, jisapar hattha kh da hota hai. arthath hattha khaddi ke oopar kh da hota hai. khaddi lak di ki bani hoti hai jo do khooante par kh di hoti hai. isamean khaddidar siki bani hoti hai, jisake bes par lak di ka mala laga hota hai.
gethua (gethava, getava)	gethua ya getava mean lak di ke kaanti nayalon ke dhage se bana jala hota hai. isi ko gethua kaha jata hai. kee varsh poorv jab nayalon ka prachar prasar nahian hua tha us samay varanasi ke binakar sooti dhagoan ka hi gethua banaya karate the. halaanki ajakal sooti gethua kahi bhi vyavahar mean nahian laya jata hai.
pauansar	pauansar karakhane mean pair ke pas laga hota hai. samanyatah belaboote par char pauansar hote haian jisamean do damma ka pausar tatha do mashin ka pausar hota hai. mashin ke pausar ko jab dabaya jata hai tab yah naka uthata hai, jabaki dam ke pauansar dabane se yah tani uthata hai.
siraki	siraki baans ka bana hota hai, tatha isaka upayog zari tatha kadhaee banane ke lie kiya jata hai.
naulakkha (bojha)	pausar dabane par naka ya tani oopar ki or uthata hai jisase kap de ki binaee tatha kadhaee ki prakriya chalati rahati hai. naka ya tani oopar ki or uthane ke bad yah zaroori hai ki vah phir apane poorv sthan par yathavat a jae aur kahian phanse bhi nahian. isi ke lie karakhane mean ek vajan donoan taraph do-do kar dal diya jata hai, jise naulakkha ya bojha kahate haian. pahale naulakkha kumhar ki mitti ko pakakar sundar akriti mean banata tha. halaanki ajakal isake badale eeanta ya baloo ke bojh ka bhi prayog kiya jata hai.
patabel	aanchal ke donoan patti ko patabel kaha jata hai.
lappa	lappa karaghe ke sabase oopari bhag ko kahate haian. lappa baans ya lak di ke char tuk de se banaya jata hai. baans ya lak di ke tuk de ko ari-tirachhi rakhakar us par rakha jata hai. yahaan ke log jaikvard ko apani bhasha mean mashin kahate haian. lappa lak di ya baans ke tuk de ko hi kahate haian.
mashin ka danda	yah jaikvard mashin ka danda hota hai. mashin ka danda lak di se bana hota hai. harek dande mean do chhed kiya jata hai jinhean do lak diyoan ke bich nat tatha bolt se kas diya jata hai.
maank di	maank di lappe ke oopar hota hai. yah dandanuma akriti ka hota hai. maank di se vay ki gathua uthata hai.
chi daiya (chi dee ka danda)	jis dande se jakard mashin ke slaid ko uthaya jata hai use chi daiya ya phir chi dee ka danda kaha jata hai. chi daiya niche ki or mashin par hamesha jhuka ho is khyal se lohe ke plet se ise baandh diya jata hai. mashin ke dande ka pichhala hissa ek dori dvara niche karakhane mean ek livar dvara kasa hota hai jisako pair se dabane se mashin apana kary shuru kar deta hai.

vasr banane se poorv ki prakriya

[[chitr:Kimkhab brocades.gif|thumb|kimakhab kadhaee ]] banaras mean resham ke dhage sarvadhik rup se karnatak rajy ke bangalaur shahar se ata hai. bazar ke dukanadaroan, girasta (bhihasta) tatha bunakaroan se sampark ke dauran yah pata chala ki banarasi sa di mean prayukt hone vale 75 se 80 pratishat reshami dhage karnatak se hi ate haian. halaanki jammoo aur kashmir, pashchim bangal (malada), bihar (chaeebasa tatha santal paragana) ityadi jagahoan se bhi tho de bahut matra mean kachcha reshami dhaga mangaya jata hai. ikke-dukke nami-garami girasta tatha kothidar manamaphik ardar ke beshakimati tatha naphisi banarasi sa di banane ke lie chin, japan, koriya ityadi deshoan se bhi resham ke dhage ko mangate ya ayat karate haian. chooanki ayat ki prakriya jatil hai tatha yah kafi manhaga bhi p data hai atah samany girasta tatha kothidar evan binakar in ayatit reshami dhagoan se sa di nahian banata. purane binakaroan, girastoan tatha kothidaroan se vistrit batachit ke dauran yah tathy ubhar kar hamare samane aya ki kee varshoan pahale arthath ajadi ke poorv banaras mean adhikaansh rup se kachche reshami dhage sarvadhik rup se kashmir, chin, japan, koriya tatha bangaladesh (dhaka) evan pashchim bangal se mangaye jate the.

katan

yahaan resham mean 'malavari' resham ka prayog kiya jata hai. malavari resham 2 plaee tavisted yarn hota hai jise banarasi ya yoan kahean ki binakari ki bhasha mean 'katan' kaha jata hai. katan ek kilo ke lachchha ya gundi mean rahata hai. ise saboon aur pani dalakar bhatti mean di-gamad (goand tatha chipachipahat rahit) kiya jata hai aur antatah blich kiya jata hai. digamd bahut hi uchch tap par kiya jata hai. digamiang tatha blichiang ki prakriya poorn ho jane par katan ke guchchhe ko rangarej ko rangane ke lie diya jata hai. reshami dhagoan ko rangana bhi ek jatil prakriya hai sath hi sath yah mahangi bhi hai.

• digamiang ka kam sare log nahian karate. kuchh khas parivar is kala mean parangat hote haian. digamiang ke bad soot ke lachchhe ke vajan mean lagabhag 250 gram tak ki kami a jati hai. ek kilo ka lachchha ghatakar 750 gram tak ho jata hai.
• rangane ki prakriya bhi sabhi binakar svayan nahian karate haian. halaanki jyadetar girasta svayan hi lachchhe ko rangakar phir binakar ko binane ke lie dete haian. aur agar binakar svatantr hai to vah phir svayan ya kisi dayar se guchchhe ko ichchhit rang mean rangava leta hai.
• rangaee ki prakriya samapt ho jane par guchchhe ko bobin baindar se sulajhaya jata hai (ya phir yoan kahean ki bobin mean lapeta jata hai.) usake bad tana banaya jata hai. ek tane ki lambaee samanyataya 25 mitar ki hoti hai, jisase char sa di asani se banaya ja sake. tana banane ka kam binakar svayan karata hai, kintu agar tane mean vibhinn rangoan ke dhage ka prayog karana ho (kisi khas dijain ke lie), to purane tane mean ne rangin tane ko binakar svayan nahian karata balki jo isake visheshajn hote haian, unaki sahayata li jati hai.
• tana banakar phir usake ek-ek tag ko sulajhakar lapetan mean lapet liya jata hai. tana ban jane par phir use hathakaraghe par baitha diya jata hai. sath hi sath ichchhit dijaeen jise kap de par utarana hai, naksheband se banavaya jata hai aur phir naksheband ke dijain jo graph pepar mean bana hota hai ke adhar par dijain ki patti kut par jekvard kard panchar dvara chhed kiya jata hai. ant mean jakvard se jala ko thik se sajaya jata hai. harek tane ko jale se taank diya jata hai. usake bad binane ki prakriya prarambh ho jati hai.

banaras ki vasr kala bahut hi prachin hai. yoan to yahaan ki binane ki parampara banaras zile ke alave moo, baliya aur yahaan tak ki p dosi rajy bihar ke patana, phatua, aurangabad tak phail gaya hai.

motiph

banarasi sa di tatha vasroan mean vyavahar kiye jane vale motiph unake paitarn

motiph	samany vivaran	paitarn
booti	booti chhote-chhote tasviroan ki akriti lie hue hota hai. isake alag-alag paitarn ko do ya tin rango ke dhage ki sahayata se banaye jate haian. yah banarasi sa di ke lie pramukh avashyak tatha mahattvapoorn akritiyoan mean se ek hai. isase sa di ki jamin ya mukhy bhag ko susajjit kiya jata hai. pahale rang ko 'hunar ka rang ' kaha jata hai. jo samanyataya gold ya silvar dhage ko ek eksatra bharani se banaya jata hai halaanki ajakal isake lie reshami dhagoan ka bhi prayog kiya jata hai jise mina kaha jata hai jo reshami dhage se hi banata hai. samanyataya mine ka rang hunar ke rang ka hone chahie.	kairi booti (am ke akriti ki booti) latipha booti (prakriti ke saundary se prabhavit) asarphi booti rudraksh booti chane ke pate ki booti 'ganga jamuna' ya 'sona-rupa' booti
boota	jab booti ke akriti ko b da kar diya jata hai to is badhe hue akriti ko boota kaha jata hai. chhote hare pe d-paudhe jisake sath chhoti-chhoti pattiyaan tatha phool lage hoan isi akriti ko boote se ubhara jata hai. yah pe d paudhe bhi ho sakata hai aur kuchh phool bhi ho sakata hai. gold, silvar ya reshami dhage ya inake mishran se boota kadha jata hai. rangoan ka chayan dijain tatha avashyakata ke anusar kiya jata hai. boota sa di ke b aaurdar, pallav tatha aanchal mean kadha jata hai jabaki broked ke aangan mean ise kadha jata hai. kabhi-kabhi sa di ke kinare mean ek khas ki ke boote ko kadha jata hai, jise yahaan ke log apani bhasha mean koniya kahate haian.	kairi boota 'latipha' boota 'shikaragah' boota 'ganga jamuna' boota 'pan' boota
koniya	jab ek khas akriti ke boote ko banarasi vasroan ke kone mean kadha jata hai to use koniya kahate haian. akriti ko is tarah se banaya jata hai jisase ve kone ke akar mean asani se a sakean tatha boote se vasr aur achchhi tarah se alankrit ho sake. jin vasroan mean svarn tatha chaandi dhagoan ka prayog kiya jata hai unhian mean koniya ko banaya (kadha) jata hai. samanyataya koniya kadhane ke rie reshami dhagoan ka prayog nahian kiya jata hai, kyoanki reshami dhagoan se shuddh phool pattiyoan ka dijain sahi dhag se nahian ubhar pata.	shikaragah koniya kairi koniya kalanga koniya pan-patti koniyaan.
bel	yah ek ari ya dharidar phool pattiyoan ya jyamitiy dhang se sajae ge dijain hote haian. inhean kshaitij are ya te de me de tarike se bataya jata hai, jisase ek bhag ko doosare bhag se alag kiya ja sake. kabhi-kabhi bootiyoan ko is tarah se sajaya jata hai ki ve patti ka rup le lean. bhinn-bhinn jagahoan par alag-alag tarike ke bel banae jate haian.	patabel ari-bel ekahari bel dohari bel lahariya bel gu bel.
jal aur jangala	jal jaise nam se hi spasht hota hai jal ke akriti lie hue hote haian. jal ek prakar ka paitarn hai, jisamean booti ko sa di ke mean sajaya jata hai. jangala shabd sanbhavat: jangal se bana hai. jangala akriti prakritik tatvoan se kafi prabhavit hai. jangala katan aur tana ka plen vasr hota hai. jisamean samast phool, patte, janavar, pakshi ityadi bane hote haian. jangala jal se kafi milata julata hota hai.	phooladar jal aangur ki bel ka jal minadar jal sidhi patti ka jal lattariya patti ka jal jari jal.
jhalar	b aaurdar ke turant bad jahaan kap de ka mukhy bhag jise aangana kaha jata hai ki shuruat hoti hai vahaan ek khas dijain vasr ko aur adhik alankrit karane ke lie diya jata hai to ise jhalar kaha jata hai. samanyataya yah b aaurdar ke dijain se rang tatha materiyal mean milata hota hai.	chiraitan jhalar tin pattiyaan jhalar salaidar latariya paitarn charakhana do thappa phulavari pattidar

kala ko jivit rakhane ki vivashata

pahale shuddh sone tatha chaandi se zari banaya jata tha. atah jab sa di pahanane layaq nahian bhi rahati thi to jalakar khasi matra mean sona ya chaandi ikattha kar liya jata tha. yakayak 1977 mean chaandi ke bhav bahut badh gaya. badhe bhav ke chaandi se jari banana b da hi mahanga sabit hua. isaka natija yah nikala ki sa di ki kimat kafi badh gayi. badhi huee kimat mean log sa di kharidane se katarane lage. aisa lagane laga mano ab banarasi binakari lagabhag samapt hi ho jaegi. yah bhi ek sanyog hi tha ki lagabhag usi samay gujarat ke shahar soorat mean nakali zari ka nirman praranbh ho gaya tha. nakali zari dekhane mean bilakul asali zari ke jaisi hi thi parantu isaki kimat asali j di ke dasavean hisse se bhi kam p dati thi. kuchh binakaroan ne is nakali zari ka prayog kiya. prayog saphal raha aur dhire dhire asali zari ka sthan nakali jari ne le liya. sa di ki maang punah bazar mean joro ke sath badh gayi. bunakar biradari phir apani dharaki aur pausar ke avaj mean mast hokarabinakari ke peshe mean tallin ho gaye.

ve nakali zari ke kary mean itana kho ge ki dhire-dhire aisa lagane laga ki asali zari ka namo-nishan mit jaega. isi bich 1988-1989 ke lagabhag kuchh logoan (bharatiy rees) tatha videshiyoan ne banarasi sa di tatha vasr mean asali zari lagavane ki ichchha vyakt ki. vartaman mean kuchh binakar pahale die ge aaurdar ke vasroan tatha sa diyoan mean asali zari lagate haian. halaanki asali zari ka prayog bahut hi kam hota hai, phir bhi parampara jivit hai.

panne ki pragati avastha

adhar

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poornata

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